i’m here to help! it’s my favorite place.

so, if you’re doing the introduction, shorter vacation-style, highlights tour of the Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka cities, here’s my thoughts on that and what you can do.

Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka Loop

general japan information ~

• Language (see below section too with words and phrases) – a bit of basics will help a lot. numbers is fairly easy for example, for cash payments. i think it’s not about having a conversation but acknowledgement. small gestures that signify you have a culture respect or understanding. i have a friend Carson who is a developer who made this language app https://gomi-sensei.com/
• Culturally for example, if you are stepping in front of someone, it’s common to duck your head. sort of “minimizing your inconvenience” to that person, if that makes sense. Small head/neck bows are common and appreciated. And be sure to hand/receive things with two hands, both hands, for cash or cards/keys/etc.
• If you’re at a shop and a payment tray is provided, place your cash or card in it rather than handing it directly to the cashier. Customary is not to give it hand to hand but respect the exchange process by placing and retrieving from the tray. This is pretty common!
• Transport: Set up Suica app (IC Card, alternative is called Pasmo) on your phones before arriving and link your bank card. everyone will need their own. easy to top up, and use at 7eleven and the subway and bus etc.. keep in mind last train home at night is around 11:45-12:05, and if you miss it, taxi is very expensive in japan. As for the rail passes/JR pass, i would buy individual tickets rather than the regional pass. For those, you have to queue at the station to get your ticket printed, rather than just walk thru the gate when you buy individual routes. I’ve never had the Rail Pass in japan, i think it’s pricy too.
• Internet: I always used Ubigi eSIM. Japan data is a bit expensive compared with other countries but maybe you’re good with your existing plan for a shorter stay.
• Navigation: Google Maps works great public transport. NAVITIME is another useful option, i never needed it. TABELOG is their version of yelp, but i just use google and reddit to find places to eat.
• Reservations: Book popular attractions ahead, especially like the new Ghibli park… maybe Universal Studios Japan and teamLab, and other timed-entry experiences. i think they open around the 10th of the month before. worth checking.
• Stamp collection is one of my favorite things. Be sure to bring a journal or notebook, every train station has a stamp station and a lot of businesses do too.

The Konbini / Convenience stores deserves their own whole section

• you can pay with your IC card (suica) here
• I love to use the printing machines to make post cards of photos i’ve taken in Japan to send to friends (bring a USB stick)
• have fun and try unique combination “hacks” with the drinks
• combine the egg salad sandwich with a piece of fried chicken, that’s good!
• another overwhelming place to walk around and see interesting gadgets and foods is don quixote stores, they are sometimes 6-7 stories and will take lots of time, but interesting for souvenirs
• surprisingly, not too expensive to send a package or parcel with japan post back to usa if you need

Top top tips

• Tokyo: if you’re up for a big city walk – this would be a VERY shinjuku/shibuya day… and Shinbashi to eat, and standing sushi to try the zuniku (tuna head meat)
• Kyoto Arashiyama day: i enjoyed a lot a full day with some loop like this (at the northern part, there is hardly people, and the nature becomes more apparent, that’s nice)
• Kyoto must try yatsuhashi dessert, one of my favorites in all of japan, only available in a few places. i recommend the packaged strips of the mochi that are in rectangle shape (not hard, and no filling) with flavors like matcha or original or cinnamon. it’s so good.
• Kyoto kifune shrine and mt kurama by train and walking

Tokyo 🗼

some ideas for tokyo 3-4 days

maybe you structure as a few days in different regions of the city. it’s a big big city, well-connected, but spread. depending where you stay, of course check out your local area, but worth extending a bit to see more local/authentic tokyo. shibuya and shinjuku are chaotic and like any big city. bright lights. tons of people. huge confusing subway stations (see “back rooms” game/movie), which is fun in their own way to get lost and experience it. but then neighborhoods like Kichijoji are rated as the top in Tokyo for locals and families, beautiful park, different vibe. (I like this area, Koenji, Asagaya, Kichijoji, the “chuo” subway line. it’s very authentic and liveable and not as touristy)… Akihabara neighborhood for collectibles and gaming and anime. Ueno has a nice park and zoo.

generally, i’m not sure i can recommend much the central central tokyo. like around Tokyo station and the Imperial Palace is very much corporate and transit-hub. i also wouldn’t spend too much time at the temples. it’s beautiful to see and take some pictures, but they are very similar. maybe just the 2 in tokyo and the 1 famous funari in Kyoto… depends what you like; architecturally or culturally or foodie or what.

i try to share some stuff that’s nearby each other to help structure.

unique tokyo food experience

• Shinbashi is famous for after-work izakaya foods, standing foods, salary men eating there. 
• i never went to the morning fish market. i think you need to arrive like 4am or 5am for the tuna auction and it’s very touristy, but could be cool.

1. Shinjuku & Shibuya, shopping, city center, crowds, lights

• if you’re up for a big city walk – this would be a VERY shinjuku/shibuya day: https://maps.app.goo.gl/9PqjPFjfhr3htGcB7
• i think the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building has a free observation deck with great city views. A good alternative to the expensive Shibuya Sky.
• Meiji Jingu: peaceful shrine surrounded by forest.
• 5 Star Camera in Shinjuku: Great for used and vintage cameras if you’re curious for buying one..
• Yoyogi Park: nice for a walk, near the shrine and Takeshita Street for shopping in Harajuku…
• at night, Shinjuku Golden Gai (though touristy, kinda cool) and Kabukicho to see the neon lights and atmosphere. Kabukicho is especially wild at night, lots of street drinking.
• one of the top bars in the world is here, Benfiddich
• Nezu museum is beautiful, i liked this one

2. Asakusa, Ueno & Akihabara, shrine and electronics stuff

• Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa is one of Tokyo’s most famous and has really good street foods… nearby is an underground Ninja/Samurai themed bar that feels very “old tokyo”… can go for standing sushi and try the zuniku (tuna head meat), the only place i’ve had it, and it’s soo good.
• Sumida River walk… could go up the sky tower if you wanted, but it’s a bit further away across the river…
• Ueno Park and zoo. nearby is SCAI bathhouse art gallery, should be cool
• Akihabara: Gaming, anime, electronics, and quirky shops. adult shops. crazy place.

3. Koenji & Kichijoji, more local places

• Koenji subway stop: Vintage shops, cafés, and independent stores.
• Kichijoji stop: popular residential area with great shops and restaurants. and walking at Inokashira Park
• one of my favorite days in tokyo was walking this route and finding the train tracks on a bridge over the park, very peaceful and local feel https://maps.app.goo.gl/bnCWnFLNuy5weePn8

4. Alternative tokyo walks / neighborhoods…

• walk between ebisu and nakameguro (a locals favorite neighborhoods)
• shimokitazawa is a hipster area known for curry and vintage shopping
• visit a japanese style onsen if you are comfortable bathing in the nude with local people – good for rainy day

Small day trip: Kamakura or Yokohama has a great china town. Can do these together if you start early.. Kamakura is a coastal town with temples, nice cafes, beaches, surf shops, and a small island (Enoshima) to walk. Yokohama has a baseball team, i went to a game, that’s fun.

Disney is really a full day. I’m not sure i would recommend it.

🦊

ideas for Kyoto 3-4 days

kyoto is more traditional. old capital of japan. people dress more conservatively and act more conservatively. they might be more buttoned-up, straight-laced, more shy or even judgemental. it’s slower and quieter than tokyo. embedded in nature. for me, kyoto is best for nature. they have the unique train rides here where you sit facing the window, and it’s really beautiful.  — Hiei/Eizan route, Aoniyoshi route, Hankyu Route

for some of the temples like the Saihō-ji Temple and Katsura Imperial Villa (i think it’s called?) you need reservations ahead. sometimes months ahead. look into this.

one of my favorite thing to do is walking the river north north north, beyond the split in the river to the botanic garden. but i’m not sure how is it in the winter. there’s also the famous “philosophers path walk” that takes you through a few temples. kyoto is a great place to rent bicycles too.

• picnic at Kamogawa river delta, cross the river, walk along the river
• kazubar downtown, cozy and hidden spot
• a nice night time stroll along the little canal in town (takase river) to see some music bars and gelato place. 
• Favorite temple is Hōrinji (Darumadera) Temple, it’s small and peaceful and quiet, nearby some cute cafes, cat cafe, other temples, and onsen/sento bath.

1. East side of town

• Kiyomizu-dera temple famous but crowded area with nice views of town… and neabry Sannenzaka & Ninenzaka historic streets. funny japanese style starbucks. but again really crowded and touristy… go there for a morning but i wouldn’t stay too long.
• Gion neighborhood is where i stay when i’m there
• Nishiki food market

2. Fushimi Inari & south side of Kyoto

• Fushimi Inari Shrine: Famous for the red torii gates. hike to the top, and it’s especially atmospheric in early early morning or night. at night i saw boars, and there was zero people. that was very cool.
• great cafe vermillion nearby, before or after visit the mountain

3. Arashiyama & west Kyoto

• Arashiyama Bamboo area, again better early morning, less people, the monkey mountain is good to walk, it’s a bit uphill and takes 2-3 hours. not sure how it’s like in winter.
• Otagi Nenbutsu-ji: cool temple filled with hundreds of stone figures.
• Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion)
• The scenic train is here: Sagano Romantic Train (Torokko)• Route: Runs for 7 kilometers between Torokko Saga (near Arashiyama) and Torokko Kameoka in about 25 minutes.
• i enjoyed a lot a full day with some loop like this (at the northern part, there is hardly people, and the nature becomes more apparent, that’s nice): https://maps.app.goo.gl/mSXwtVLbQwmqKjFZA

4. Kifune shrine and Mt Kurama

• this was a great day: https://maps.app.goo.gl/nxp55WcZccEW4mQJ8
• less people, can cross the mountain to get to another shrine, and easy with train in/out of city center.
• adventurous feeling, and lesser known, and great nature (again not sure about December)

Day trips

• visit Nara, to see the famous temple and the deer that bow to you
• you could even take a day trip from from Kyoto to Osaka just to see the canal area and walk a bit, and go back to Kyoto. I think it’s like 1 hour train.

🌈

ideas for Osaka if 2ish days

osaka is a bit more “rough” and dirty by japanese standards. even some parts (red light district around tennoji get dodgy at night. but it’s the comedic and social center of japan, as a historically merchant and port city. the people are much friendly than tokyo. but i wouldn’t force a visit, as for 10 days, 5 in tokyo and 5 in kyoto would be plenty, for example…osaka is big and doesn’t have as many “sites” as the other two.

1. Namba & Dotonbori

• Dotonbori canal is nice to walk and have some street food (takoyaki and okonomiyaki are famous here)
• Rikuro’s cheesecake is also famous and delicious and unique
• staying around Namba is convenient… Umeda is the other “city center” area, lots around there, and a little slightly less touristy than Namba (at Umeda, Pizza Napoletana Regalo is so good.)

2. Shinsekai

• old, colorful neighborhood with old-time atmosphere. creative. Interesting. you can do the mario street go-karts here. and climb the tower at night is nice.
• Must try the kushikatsu and kushiage, Osaka’s famous deep-fried skewers
• My friends run Pika Space, a unique tea, music, and shisha spot in Shinsekai. It’s a slightly more adult-oriented place, so probably not a priority for a family visit. fun photography books and nice people.

Theme parks

• Universal Studios Japan and Super Nintendo World could be cool but i’ve never been. takes a whole day and need to reserve tickets ahead

Day trips from Osaka

• Can visit Kobe 
• Can visit Minoh Park and waterfall, nice nature and light hiking, Katsuoji temple

small japanese words 

• ohayo gozaimasu — Good morning
• arigato gozaimasu — Thank you very much
• sumimasen — Excuse me / sorry / to get someone’s attention 
• Gomen — Sorry (or gomen nasai) – so sorry
• Onegaishimasu — Please
• Kore — This one
• Kawaii — cute
• Oishii — Delicious
• Kanpaiiii — Cheers
• Gochisosama deshita — Said after a meal to express thanks
• Itadakimasu — bon appetite
• Saiko! — Awesome!
• Nihongo jozu — “your Japanese is good”—they love to say that even if it’s very bad
• Food words: mizu (water), buta (pork), yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), onigiri (rice balls)… Konbini is convenience store

mostly i would say, have some structure and destinations but really: move slow and notice details. japan is a place that really rewards slowness and detail-oriented. it’s going to be rushed if you wanna see and do everything (which is impossible)… temples start to become all the same… and it takes time to reach each place! … one idea, one day, you should go your own way, on some kind of random side quest. japan becomes noticeably more meaningful (for me) when you’re off the beaten path and by yourself.

have fun, tanoshinde kudasai 🙂

-steff